When people talk about the north of Spain, San Sebastián usually gets the most attention, and for good reason. However, just a couple of hours west lies another wonderful city. Santander, capital of the Cantabria region. Santander is one of the stops on the Camino del Norte. And it’s a place I can’t recommend enough for a rest day from walking.
On the bus ride into town, I was awestruck by Cantabria’s lush mountains and endless coastline. Although I was impressed by Santander’s surroundings, I had no idea what to expect from the city itself.
I knew it was a port town and the passenger ferries from England arrived there. I also know that port towns come with a certain grit. So, if I’m honest, I wasn’t expecting too much. This was just a quick stop on the way to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum, which I was most looking forward to.
Bus stations aren’t usually in the best parts of town, but Santander’s is surprisingly pleasant. It overlooks the port and is near a charming park on a hill. It was a bit of a steep climb to my Airbnb, but I didn’t mind. It was such a pretty walk!
By the time I dropped off my bags, it was dinner time. Taking advantage of the beautiful evening to get my bearings, I followed the noise to lively Plaza Cañadío, behind the magnificent Iglesia Santa Lucía, which was jam-packed with a row of restaurants and their patios. The energy was electric. And because we were coming out of Covid, it felt like the best night of my life.
Santander is a place that has something for everyone. For those who love to soak up the sun, the city has beautiful beaches that aren’t as crowded as other destinations in Spain. You can grab a spot on the sand or snag a wooden lawn chair. Another option for a beachy day out is to hop on one of the small ferries, which take passengers over to the Playa del Puntal, where you can enjoy pinchos and a drink at the Chiringuito El Puntal and take in sweeping views of the city.
I like knowing that the beach is there. I love the fresh air and sitting down for a meal overlooking the water. However, I’m not one to spend all day sitting on the beach. For those like me, who love exploring a city, taking photographs, visiting museums, and practicing Spanish with locals at a bar, Santander has plenty for you too!
I’m a pilgrim, so of course I love to walk. But here is where you slow down and stroll. I love the beautiful walkway overlooking the beaches, leading to the city’s elegant Paseo de Pereda. It reminds me of the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, with the water on one side and luxurious apartments on the other. Here, you’ll also find colourful gardens, quaint bars, and ice cream shops galore. And it’s the most popular spot to join the locals in their evening paseo.
Art lovers will want to visit the Centro Botín, whose modern building confidently hangs up and over the seawall and is a point of interest in its own right. I also love the café here, with its breathtaking sea view. It offers the perfect start to the day or a welcome reprieve from sightseeing.
Santander’s old town has all the things we love about Spanish cities.
Visit its many churches and stamp your credencial at the Cathedral. Then walk around and admire the city’s exquisite architecture. Stroll the promenade and visit the ornate Santander Bank building and the Palacio de la Magdalena to see how the other half lives. And take a history lesson at the Archaeology and Maritime museums.
You’ll be spoiled at Santander’s bars and restaurants. Being a coastal town, you’ll find a variety of seafood, traditional Spanish favorites, and modern fusion fare. The pinchos culture didn’t seem as predominant here as in the neighbouring Basque Country, but you can still find small bites all over town. Of course, what would a Spanish city be without its local market? Hit up the Mercado de la Esperanza for jamón and queso for your beach picnic.
I can’t think of a better addition to a Northern Spain itinerary than Santander. And for those walking the Norte, plan a rest day here. You’ll love it!
Santander has the glamour we love San Sebastián for, but with a more down-to-earth vibe and price tag. It is an easy place to visit — small, compact, and comfortable — and makes a fantastic destination for solo travelers, pilgrims, and anyone looking for somewhere off-the-beaten-path in Spain.
Buen Camino!