I first visited Oviedo during Semana Santa in 2023. And I fell in love with the city instantly. It’s clean, safe, and insanely gorgeous. Although popular with Spaniards, it’s an underrated destination with foreign visitors. But it’s a city that should be included on any Spain itinerary.
Oviedo is the capital of Spain’s Asturias region and the starting point of the Camino Primitivo. You can also reach Oviedo via the Camino del Norte and the Camino de San Salvador. Asturias is famous for its lush scenery, great food, and ever-changing weather. And, after completing my Primitivo, I can attest to all of this!
I know that as pilgrims, we can get focused on our walk. But whether this is the start of your Primitivo or you land here via the other routes, don’t rush through Oviedo. There is so much to see and do in this vibrant city. And the food is some of the best in Spain. It’s a city worth taking your time in. And a visit here will only make your Camino experience more memorable.
Getting to Oviedo
Asturias Airport (OVD) is 47 km outside Oviedo. From there, a taxi or the Ovi Bus service will take you into the city in 35 to 45 minutes. Taxis cost roughly 60 euros, whereas the bus is a great budget option at 9 euros.
You can also get to Oviedo from most of Spain’s major cities via the RENFE train network or ALSA bus. I’ve done both from Madrid. The direct train takes about three hours, and the bus takes five and a half hours. The bus ride is longer but much more scenic. Book well in advance for the cheapest fares.
Oviedo’s train and bus stations are side-by-side. And it’s an easy 10-minute walk into the center of town.
Things to Do In Oviedo
Cathedral of San Salvador
The Cathedral of San Salvador is the most important place for pilgrims. Construction of this cathedral began in the 13th Century and is a beautiful mix of Renaissance, Gothic, and Baroque styles. See its remarkable altarpiece, visit the holy relics, and learn why this cathedral only has one tower.
It costs 7-9 euros to visit the cathedral. And an additional 10 if you’d like to go up the tower. Keep an eye out for any concerts and events. They’re wonderful! I attended a free musical concert and was able to have a look around the cathedral afterward.
If you didn’t order a credencial beforehand, you can pick one up at the cathedral or Oviedo’s tourist office. They’re free. It’s also nice to get your first stamp at the cathedral. The desk at the entrance will give you a stamp whether you purchase an admission ticket or not.
San Francisco Park
Once the site of the city’s market garden, San Francisco Park spans 22 acres through Oviedo’s centre. It was transformed into this gorgeous urban park in the 19th Century. And its wide avenues and winding paths are flanked by over 900 trees, including chestnuts, oaks, and English elms. It’s the perfect spot to take a breather from your sightseeing.
Like the rest of the city, plenty of interesting sculptures can be found in the park. My favourite is Mafalda, an Argentinian comic strip character popular in Spain. Take a photo with her. Then cool off at the many fountains and see the Romanesque ruins of San Isidoro Church.
Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias
Art fanatics should not miss the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias. It’s one of the best in Spain. Goya, Sorolla, El Greco, Picasso, and Miró are some of the famous artists featured in this vast collection.
Schedule a fair bit of time in your day for this museum. It looks small from the outside, but it spans several historic and modern buildings. So, in addition to great art, you also get to take a fascinating walk through Oviedo’s past and present. The museum is free to visit.
Plaza del Fontán
Plaza del Fontán has always been where farmers and artisans have come to sell their products. And that tradition lives on today. The plaza gets its name from the fontán or fountain that replaced a lagoon in the 16th Century.
Nowadays, Plaza del Fontán is the colourful heart of the city, full of shops and restaurants. I especially love the old porticoed houses. If you’re in town on a Thursday, Saturday, or Sunday, visit the flea market and flower stalls.
El Fontán Market
Markets are an important part of every Spanish city and town. And Oviedo’s is one of my favourites. This one dates back to the 19th Century and I love its industrial Victorian look. Inside is full of food stalls selling everything you can imagine – fish, meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables.
It’s fun to pick out a few things for lunch on the go or simply stroll around, immersing yourself in Oviedo life. Bars and restaurants are sparse on the Primitivo, so this is also the perfect place to stock up before you set off on your Camino.
The Archaeological Museum of Asturias
The old cloister of the convent of San Vicente has been home to Oviedo’s archaeology museum since 1952. The museum highlights the culture of Asturias from prehistoric times to the modern age. You can see all your archaeological favourites here – skulls, coins, weapon,s and stone columns. Entry to this museum is free.
Hunt for sculptures
Oviedo is the city of sculptures. There are over 100 scattered around the city, and each tells a story. You can find works by famous masters like Salvador Dalí and Fernando Botero, but the most visited are the sculptures of Mafalda and Woody Allen. My favourite is La Bella Lola in Plaza del Fontán.
Pick up a treat at the Monastery of San Pelayo
The Monastery of San Pelayo is one of Oviedo’s most beautiful buildings. And inside holds a tasty secret. The monastery’s nuns run a small bakery where they pride themselves on using natural ingredients for their sweets.
The menu is on display at the entrance. Ring the bell, place your order, pay (cash), and receive your treats. Every pilgrim should pick up a bag (or more) of the conchas de peregrino. They are delicious and a nice way to celebrate the Camino.
And since the nuns make them by hand, they must be blessed. So, no calories, right?
Naranco sites
If you’re up for an extra walk, don’t miss a visit to the churches of Monte Naranco. This UNESCO Heritage site is located four kilometers from Oviedo’s centre. But it’s a pleasant walk.
The churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo date back to the 9th Century and are two of the most important examples of the pre-Romanesque in Europe. If you have more time and stamina, climb to the Sacred Heart of Jesus monument at the top of the mountain.
Where to Stay
Oviedo has lots of great hotels for every budget. So, you have many options for a central stay in the city.
Albergue de Peregrinos de El Salvador
This is Oviedo’s Municipal albergue. And although I didn’t stay here, I did visit to collect a stamp for my credencial. Its gloomy exterior looks asylum-like. But the inside is clean and comfortable. And the hospitaler@s are lovely. Although it’s slightly outside of Oviedo’s main hub, you can still easily walk to all of Oviedo’s attractions.
Hotel Duerming Longoria Plaza
I stayed here for five nights during my visit to Oviedo. And for a solo traveller, it was a great choice. The hotel is modest but comfortable. And most importantly, it didn’t break the bank. I loved the location. It is very central and within walking distance of everything. The Camino passes right outside the front door.
Eurostars Hotel de La Reconquista
If you can’t snag a reservation at Santiago de Compostela’s Parador, this is a great Plan B. Built in 1752, this iconic building was the Provincial Hospice of Oviedo. With over 200 years of history, this is the perfect choice for a luxurious start to your Camino.
Where to Eat
Asturias is one of the great culinary regions of Spain. And foodies will be spoiled here. The region is famous for its meat, cheese, beans, and cider. But its crowning glory is “cachopo”, an artery-clogging dish of cheese and jamón sandwiched between two breaded veal or beef cutlets.
You can find great food all over Oviedo, but these are some places I visited and enjoyed.
Gloria
This beautiful restaurant has received a nod from the folks at Michelin. And for good reason. This is the place to come for contemporary spins on modern Spanish cuisine. I took advantage of their amazing weekday menú del día. The offerings change, but the croquetas are a staple. And they are to die for!
Las Tablas del Campillín
Cachopo is difficult for me to manage on my own. It’s so huge! But I couldn’t come to Oviedo and not try it! I found this gem just outside the city centre, near the Municipal albergue. It’s the perfect spot for solos as you can have their award-winning cachopo in burger size. But if you have a big appetite or are travelling with others, don’t worry, you can still get a “normal” portion.
Gascona: El Bulevar de la Sidra
Oviedo’s Boulevard of Cider is a lively place for lunch or dinner. Cider is the symbol of Asturias. And there’s nowhere better to sample this famous drink. With more than a dozen cider bars, it has the best gastronomy scene in town.
Tierra Astur
Tierra Astur is a chain restaurant that serves huge portions of Asturian fare. It reminds me a little bit of the Olive Garden in that the restaurants are enormous, they’re always crowded and the meals could feed three. But it’s a fun atmosphere and the food is hearty and delicious. Although I don’t love the taste of the cider, I still like to order a bottle and be part of the show!
***
Oviedo is one of Spain’s loveliest cities. So, if you’re starting the Primitivo, veering off the Norte, ending the San Salvador or just on holiday in Spain, be sure to spend a full day or two here. Oviedo is a city that captured my heart and is somewhere I will visit again and again. I’m sure you will feel the same.
Buen Camino!